Leg 23: Fiji – Whangarei

Almost immediately after raising the anchor, we hoisted the first sails and switched off the engine. This allowed us to begin our journey under sail, weaving through the reefs. It promised to be a beautiful trip, especially when a group of dolphins joined us along the way.

Although the wind was technically coming from the wrong direction, it was so perfect for sailing that we happily took a bit of a detour for a few days. When the wind eventually died down, we started the engine and set course in the right direction.

With the engine running, we had plenty of time for on-deck lessons about sailing, the weather, and even a fascinating session on DNA from one of the Darwin leaders. We also enjoyed the views over the water, identifying various bird species, and spotting whales. And, just as importantly, we shared wonderful conversations with each other.

There was a relaxed atmosphere on board, and the group was very international. It was clear that everyone was thoroughly enjoying themselves! And, of course, it was fantastic when we finally sighted land and saw the mountains rising in the distance.

All in all, it was a beautiful, relaxed, fun, and educational journey for everyone.

Leg 22: Tonga – Fiji

We got off to a great start in Tonga with a show of breaching humpback whales. We made good progress downwind, and within a few days we reached our first destination in Fiji: We arrived in Savusavu. We took the opportunity to explore the town, the island of Vanua Levu and the underwater world of the bay. The days we spent anchored here were really calm, and the scenery was so beautiful that it was hard to say goodbye. To reach our final destination, we sailed under full sails and tacked up and down a few times to perfect our manoeuvres. And finally, the entry into the bay of Suva was made extra special because we were escorted by a pod of playful dolphins between the reefs.

Leg 21: Roratonga – Tonga

Our Tonga trip began with adventure. Bad weather kept us from entering Rarotonga’s harbor, so we anchored on the west coast and used the dinghy to get everyone aboard through a narrow reef passage.

That night, with strong winds shifting north, we quickly set sail for open sea. The first night was rough, with winds up to force 7, causing heavy rolling. Some battled seasickness, but by the next day, conditions had eased.

Now, on day three, it feels like paradise—sunny skies, warm winds, and starry nights.

Leg 20: Tahiti – Cook Islands

As we departed from the lagoon near Papeete, we were accompanied by a playful pod of dolphins. A remarkable start to our sailing journey along the stunning Society Islands towards the Cook Islands! After a calm day at sea, we quickly reached Huahine—a beautiful island full of unspoiled nature. Thanks to the lack of wind, we took our time to thoroughly explore the island.

Next, we visited Tahaa and Raiatea, where we dropped anchor in the clear and warm turquoise waters for an afternoon of snorkeling and swimming among the colorful coral reefs. We concluded our time in French Polynesia the following day with a visit to the paradisiacal Bora Bora, after which we embarked on a few days at sea towards Rarotonga. The crossing went smoothly, and upon arrival in the Cook Islands, we were greeted by several humpback whales near our anchorage, providing us with a very warm and special welcome!

Leg 19: Papeete – Papeete

From the scorching hot Tahiti, we are already on our way to new islands. First we sailed to Huahine, one of the Society islands. The pilot mentioned that it is not spectacular. But the pilot was wrong! Huahine is an island with large natural bays in a beautiful lagoon. We sailed out of the lagoon just before sunset and under a beautiful starry sky we are now sailing towards Bora Bora. By making the crossing at night, we save some time. Time we want to use to see one of the most famous and iconic islands of this archipelago, Bora Bora. So we sail across a calm Pacific with a gentle tailwind. Around sunrise, we expect to arrive.

The weather in this region is determined by major low-pressure systems passing far south of us. They cause the winds, which are usually south-easterly, to shift more to the east and, when the fronts pass, go all the way around via the north, west and south. The front passage is accompanied by quite a bit of rain. So we have planned it so that we will still have nice weather on Bora Bora and after that we will have to settle for some wetter days. But the weather is still beautiful when we anchor after our visit to Bora Bora and sail to the islands of Taha’a and Raiatea, which lie together in a large lagoon, again surrounded by a large barrier reef. Not until the next morning does the rain come. But we calculated it well and we also make the crossing from Taha’a to Mo’orea with a favourable wind. With speeds of 9 and even 10 knots, we arrive at Cooks Bay with its spectacular mountain peaks at first light. As the wind keeps increasing, we spend the day hiking, swimming and snorkelling. After 11 days, we dock again in Papeete.

Leg 18: Mangareva – Papeete

After days of high winds and rain, we leave on a beautiful day. As we motor out of the atoll, we enjoy the many shades of blue and green in the water. Mangareva is famous for its black pearls and many people have bought a beautiful souvenir of this area before boarding. Direct from the fisherman, so ‘vente directe’ as they say here. As soon as we pass the last ring of coral, the water depth increases from just 5 metres to 2,000 metres. We set sail and on a flat sea we immediately do over 7 knots. Even when the next day the wind drops, it doesn’t get boring, because we catch two enormous Mahi Mahi in quick succession. We sail briskly for the first few days, allowing us to make several stops during the second half of the trip. Picking a spot is not so easy, because everywhere on the sea charts there are warnings: ‘doubtfull data’ or ‘ large depth anomalies may be expected’.

For many on board, it is incomprehensible that it still exists: white spots on the map, areas of which we only know approximately what exactly is there. Many atolls, by the way, are completely closed. So you wouldn’t be able to sail into them. But there are also many where, artificially or otherwise, there is a passage in the ring of coral. An additional danger, apart from bad charts, is the strong current that can be there. After another long grey day with lots of rain and wind shifts, we are rewarded with perhaps the most beautiful sailing day in weeks. A blue sky with friendly clouds, bright sunshine, an almost flat sea and a running breeze. With slack water, we sail through the wide pass to a truly fantastic anchorage in Fakarava atoll. A place like you draw it, with little houses on stilts by the water, frigate birds in the sky, a scorching sun, the most beautiful shades of blue and green water and white beaches with overhanging coconut palms.

As soon as you take a few steps into the water from the beach, you are greeted by the area’s most famous resident: the shark. There are hundreds, if not thousands. Black-tip reef sharks, white-tip reef sharks, hammerheads, nurse sharks, but mostly grey reef sharks.

After Fakarava, we set off for a neighbouring atoll, but as unexpectedly there is a nice breeze, we decide to change plans and set course for the society islands. Just as unexpectedly, the plan emerges to do a photo tour around the sailing ship by dinghy. After the low, flat atolls, Mo’orea is an immense change with its sharp-edged high mountains. We spend a lovely day on this beautiful island before another day late to cover the final miles to Tahiti.

Leg 17: Easter Island – Mangareva

The waves at Hanga Roa roll straight into the small harbour. Getting out safely (and dry) between the breakers turns out to be mainly a matter of good timing and a bit of luck. The authorities also have some trouble getting on board safely the next day, but by 10.30 pm everyone has a stamp in their passport. To get one last great photo on Easter Island, we sail to Anakena Bay, where cameraman Josh does his best from shore. Finally, with all square sails hoisted, we sail out into the ocean.

Enjoying the whales we saw and the feeling of being on the move again, we were startled by a fast boat from the Chilean navy suddenly popping up beside us and summoning us to turn around. It turned out to be the drone footage that cameraman Tom had taken from the ship. Illegal footage, because taken without a licence. With some stern words and confiscation of the memory card from the drone, we get off scot-free. Under full sail, we sail on, facing the setting sun. The fact that we also hook a large Mahi-Mahi is almost too much for a first day.

The following days we adapt to the calm rhythm of the sea. The wind decreases further so that at one point we even must start the engine. The calm produces beautiful images of a clear blue ocean and a surface as smooth as oil with a long low swell. After the windless day, we now have a northerly wind, force 4, making good speed under full sail. Everyone is now used to the ship’s movements on the waves, which are about 3.5 meters high. And every now and then we catch a nice mahi-mahi or tuna. Rain clouds regularly pass over and the wind increases to 5 and 6 Bft. By now we have furled the topsail and reefed the gaff sails, because more is coming. With a speed of 8 knots, we do make good progress towards Pitcairn.

At first light, we see palm trees and densely wooded slopes, and after so many days at sea, the island seems even greener than it is. We anchor on the south side of the island where we are picked up by the longboat. Everyone is delighted with their first day on the island. The locals are also very friendly and, courtesy of Steve, we can even replenish our stock of fruit and vegetables.

The fresh fruit, the bunches of bananas on deck, the stories; everything is still reminiscent of Pitcairn. But we are already on the last 300 miles to the Gambier Islands. With a brisk breeze at our backs, we arrive. Carefully we make our way through the coral in the lagoon and by late afternoon we are able to tie up at Rikitea’s small pier.

Leg 16: Galápagos Islands – Easter Island

The Galapagos has been good to us for the duration of our stay but there always comes a time where a ship is ready to set sail again. We set our sights on Rapa Nui (Easter Island) and the 1900NM of vast Pacific Ocean in between. General wind predictions present us with a rather close course to the wind, but not impossible to sail. The first few days are a mix of setting full sail and taking them down again to be replaced by the engine to make some headway and height. We feel the magnitude of the infamous Pacific swell. Within a few days we settle into a nice rhythm onboard, moral is high and everybody is bonding nicely, mucking in with all aspects of life aboard the Oosterschelde. Night watches are full of interesting discussions and admiration at the clear Southern Pacific constellations, for many it was a Southern Cross premier. We are kept very busy on deck by now, a rig set for close hauled sailing. Every day or two we reef, double reef or un-reef the gaff sails according to changeable conditions. A massive 1000NM wide weather system stand in our path to Rapa Nui, instead of charging through it we decide to navigate around the north-western side of the depression, adding 250NM to our route. This means we need to keep the speed in the ship. Approaching the island after 15 days at sea is a very special feeling. 56 pairs of eyes scanning the landscape for the first signs on the Maui heads. Sailing all the way into the shelter of Anakena Bay, a beautiful pristine white sandy beach on the north eastern side of the island. Protected from the wind and the swell, we digest the last 2 weeks, all on board have made valuable friendships on this voyage.

Leg 15: Puerto Lucía – Galápagos Islands

Our journey to the Galapagos Islands is going very well. We quickly covered the first 300 of the 500 nautical miles. As we got closer to the islands, the wind decreased and the swell began to increase, causing the ship to roll. This requires some action on deck; we lower the gaff sails and hoist the forecourse and other square sails. Excitement grows as we approach the famous Galapagos Islands. Everyone on board is looking forward to our first encounter with the iconic wildlife of this area. The first island we land on is Isla Isabela, the largest island in the archipelago. We are immediately greeted by sea lions, sharks, pelicans, frigate birds, Galapagos penguins, marine iguanas, red rock crabs, turtles, flamingos, small songbirds, blue-footed boobies and the famous Darwin’s finches. The wildlife here seems totally unafraid of human visitors. The second stop is on the island of Santa Cruz with the town of Puerto Ayora. Here you will also find the Darwin Research Station, the Natural History Museum and many restaurants and bars in picturesque locations. There is plenty to explore for a longer stay, but we are already on our way to the next island, San Cristobal!

Leg 14: Callao – Puerto Lucía

After we passed customs and immigration, we raised the anchor and hoisted the sails: both topsails, the square foresail and the mainsail. Slowly, we sailed out of the bay. The weather forecast promised a light south wind for our trip. However, it soon became apparent that this wind would not give us enough speed to arrive in Ecuador on time. Each evening after dinner, we set the sails and started the engine so that we could continue sailing leisurely the next morning after breakfast. After several days, we are now very experienced square foresail folders, as we folded them neatly every night.

During our trip we saw dolphins, rays and many birds. We also encountered many small fishing boats at sea. Our own attempts to catch fish were not very successful this time. Still, we wanted to eat fish. So, in the middle of the sea we stopped next to a small fishing boat and bought delicious fish, brining new meaning to getting food on the go!

Leg 13: Valparaíso – Callao

We embarked on a momentous voyage from Valparaiso to Callao, braving the challenges of an unfortunate anchorage amidst a sea of shipwrecks. Our position in this designated anchorage would have been ideal under ordinary circumstances. However, the Oosterschelde was turning around her anchor, winding herself to the underwater debris for over a week, entangled in a dance with the currents.

After a morning of attempts, through a combination of favourable winds and swift action from our capable crew, we broke free! Once out, the Pacific Ocean greeted us with its characteristic southerly winds and mighty swells, exactly as anticipated. In just 24 hours, we covered an astounding distance of 200 nautical miles, sailing at a remarkable speed of 10 knots! Such moments of exhilaration are few and far between. We wholeheartedly embraced the velocity, yet it served as a baptism by fire for our newly arrived guest crew, thrust into the immersive world of oceanic sailing.

We had a great beginning but had to slow down because of the unchanging weather forecast, so we had to use the motor for a couple of days. The thought of Las Ballestas islands ahead kept us motivated. This group of islands offered amazing sea arches and beautiful natural sights. Pelicans were gracefully diving and sunbathing, Peruvian Booby’s and Inca Terns were nesting, and local divers were busy fishing for octopus. And let’s not forget the large groups of sea lions, a sight we had never seen in such abundance before!

Leg 12: Talcahuano – Valparaíso

The sailing voyage from Talcahuano to Valparaíso is the shortest leg of our global voyage, spanning only 258 nautical miles. Guests arrived on board in the Bay of Concepción, where the Biobío River flows into the Pacific Ocean. Charles Darwin visited Talcahuano in 1835, shortly after the city was struck by an earthquake. He extensively documented the devastated city at the time.

After welcoming all guest sailors and providing a safety briefing, the pilot arrived on board around midnight. Following a short 15 minutes of sailing with us, he wished us a safe journey before disembarking. The weather forecast indicated strong winds, so we started the voyage with a somewhat cautious rigging. Fortunately, once at sea, conditions were better than expected, and we sailed with full rigging north along the Chilean coast. The peasant temperature made the considerable swell of over three meters much more bearable. The significant catch on the second day made both the dinner that evening as well as the entire, but short trip truly complete!

Leg 11: Punta Arenas – Talcahuano

A journey of extremes, a journey of amazement and a journey of wow moments. We left Punta Arenas in the cold and wind, through the Strait of Magellan. The water is still wide here and therefore the wind has free rein. One moment you are sitting in the sun, the next you have a lot of wind and low-hanging clouds. Once in the fjords sailing north, we had to use the engine a lot, but this was expected. The nights were cold, but fortunately short because it is summer here. The giant Pio XI glacier was a highlight, as was our spectacular encounter with whales. But anchoring at Puerto Eden was also a moment to remember. Finally, 3 more days of real sailing with lots of wind on the open ocean. A wonderful end to an incredible trip. Once anchored at Talcahuano, we could not help but look at each other we had a fantastic trip.

Leg 10: Stanley – Punta Arenas

After ensuring everyone was on board, the Captain quickly made the call to set sail towards Saunders Island. One of its bays is famous for its great colonies of King Penguins! A great place to have a quick stop. The wind forecast forbode strong westerly winds, which would only get stronger during our journey. To make the journey enjoyable for all, we decided to make an extra stop. This led us to Grave Cove, where large colonies of black-browed albatrosses, rockhoppers and gentoo penguins were waiting for us. As predicted, our voyage to Punta Arenas was dominated by headwinds which led to us needing the motor to fight the wind. Luckily, the wind also allowed us some nice times under sails! We used this time for instructive presentations about knots, seafaring history and nautical charts (courtesy of Maritime Museum Rotterdam), wonderful wildlife and great company made this whole trip a worthwhile experience for everybody.

Leg 8 & 9: Puerto Madryn – Stanley

What an adventure! We experienced a bit of everything. From setting all the sails in light winds and sunshine, to double reefed sails with strong winds, big waves and hail. There have been some hard days with seasickness, but what a reward to arrive at the Falkland Islands! On our arrival we saw many whales, dolphins swimming in front of the bow, albatrosses, seals and penguins.

Taking a walk at Saunders Island is like being in a fairy tale. The most beautiful landscape with sand beaches, turquoise blue water, and surrounded by mountains. On our walk across the Island we saw four different species of Penguins. The Rockhopper, King penguin, Magellanic Penguin and Gentoo Penguin. Meeting and observing all these wild animals is more than most of us had dreamed of.

During Christmas, while everyone at home was celebrating, we were at sea with strong winds and big waves. These circumstances were a bit too rocky for a Christmas celebration. So, we postponed that until we arrived at Weddell Island. When the ‘Oosterschelde’ was safely at anchor in the bay, we had our well-deserved Christmas dinner!

Leg 7: Punta del Este – Puerto Madryn

Embarking on the journey from Punta del Este to Puerto Madryn, we encountered a thrilling start with strong winds and a sturdy ocean swell. As we hoisted the sails, the ship swiftly gained good speed, and the excitement peaked when a group of killer whales approached us closely, with one coming up to breathe just one meter away from the aft deck! The days of our voyage were filled with diverse wildlife sightings, including the impressive albatross.

Nights were spent marveling at the stars in the southern hemisphere and witnessing intense bioluminescence in the waves. Upon reaching Puerto Madryn, we looked in awe at the dry and vast landscape along the Peninsula Valdes, adorned with sea lions and penguins on the beaches. Despite challenging weather conditions, we made the most of our time with onboard activities, including rope lessons and engine room tours. Our stay in Puerto Madryn included anchor watches, thunderstorm entertainment, and research as the DARWIN Leaders worked on their projects. As we prepare for the next voyage to the Islas Malvinas, Falklands, we anticipate a special Christmas celebration at sea, having already set up our Christmas tree in the saloon. In advance, we wish everyone a Merry Christmas. We will be spending the holiday doing what we love – sailing.

Leg 6: Rio de Janeiro – Punta del Este

Leg 6 of our journey was, for many of us, a trip not to be forgotten, described by some as ‘Traumhaft’ (dreamlike). We experienced dark nights with a sea illuminated by bioluminescence or a dark sky with spectacular thunderstorms around us. We sailed a lot, occasionally using the motor. Many albatrosses and dolphins were spotted. Fennardie wakes us up in the morning with the smell of freshly baked bread and cooks delicious meals in the evening.

For a group of Brazilian youngsters, this journey was a unique experience, and the fact that we didn’t speak each other’s language didn’t dampen the spirits. They were very interested in life on board, from the wheelhouse to the galley; everyone actively participated.During this journey, we also went on an underwater expedition. From the ‘Oosterschelde’, we lowered a remotely operated vehicle (ROV) to an underwater cliff and recorded video footage of the “Yellow Lemon Fish,” which is only found in Uruguay.

Leg 5: Salvador de Bahía – Rio de Janeiro

After a series of very warm, calm days in Salvador, the departure day could hardly have been better; sunny weather, calm waters, and a sail-friendly wind from the bay. With almost all sails raised, we sailed close-hauled to the south with a lively group of enthusiastic people on board. Gradually, as expected, the wind shifted, and after 36 hours, we only had square sails set. We didn’t need to adjust the sails until we reached Cabo Frio.

However, that didn’t mean we were bored! Firstly, the humpback whales kept a close eye on us almost constantly, or perhaps we kept ours on them… They showed themselves in all their glory; the highlight was a mother teaching her calf to leap. Dolphins also made regular appearances, and various species of birds flew around the ship. After Cabo Frio, the wind turned against us, and we had to continue under motor power until, on a windless morning with almost all sails set, we entered Rio de Janeiro.

Leg 4: Fernando de Noronha – Salvador de Bahía

As we embarked on our voyage from Fernando de Noronha to Salvador de Bahía, the first day of sailing gifted us a memorable catch – a magnificent blue marlin, which we savored during a delightful lunch the following day. The changing weather gradually became evident, with evening breezes bringing a semblance of chill, although the temperature never dipped below 28 degrees, a reminder of the relative nature of “chilly” at sea.

It was a very special moment when the sun reached its zenith, meaning it shined its light from directly above. The journey to Salvador couldn’t have gone better. With a steady southeast wind, we were able to sail almost the entire way. At first, we were going at a speed of 6 knots, but later it increased to 7, 8, and even 9 knots. conclude our journey on a breathtaking note, a pod of humpback whales graced our path just before we entered the welcoming All Saints Bay of Salvador de Bahía. And, when the sun went down, the wind died out. With all sails up, we came to a stop on the anchorage of Salvador.

Leg 3: Mindelo to Fernando de Noronha

Leg 2: Tenerife to Cape Verde

We left Tenerife on a wind still morning and an ocean looking like a mirror. In the afternoon we hoisted all sails to try and use the light breeze that had built up. The further we sailed, the hotter it got. 35 degrees became our new normal. The light following winds did not bring a lot of cooling, so we rigged up the deck tent for some shade. On one especially hot afternoon we had a little pool party with a self-constructed pool on deck in the middle of the ocean.

Most nights were clear and had us enjoying lots of stars. We even spotted an entire row of 20!! Satellites passing over us one night. What a strange sight! But surely nothing can beat the experience of seeing dolphins following the ship at night; their bodies glowing in the light of the bioluminescence.

Unfortunately, we did have to use the engine when the wind dropped so much that we barely made any speed. Luckily an enthusiastic group of musicians and singers carried our spirits high until we reached Mindelo. On the last evening the self-composed song about the ship and crew made us all laugh and sing along.

Leg 1: Plymouth to Tenerife

We have been moored right in the city centre of Plymouth for a few days now; surrounded by bars and loud music at night. The ship does attract a lot of attention, with her masts higher than most of the houses on the waterfront. After the kick-off party in the local aquarium, we are all ready to start our global voyage and are looking forward to the rhythm of the sea again.

The morning of departure brought us no wind and fog. However, we were honoured with half of Plymouth waving us off. We started our voyage through the English Channel and Bay of Biscay (both known for strong winds and rough seas) but we enjoyed light weather and met several groups of dolphins every day. The group of 5 fin whales surfacing close to us has definitely been our most spectacular animal encounter.

When the weather forecast predicted strong headwinds, we sheltered in Carino (N Spain) and resumed sailing the next morning. With lighter winds, we continued our way south towards Tenerife. Coming closer to Tenerife also meant coming closer to the wildfires that were raging on the island. So surely the news updates were a big topic at the dinner table. Luckily the fires were under control before our arrival.